Thursday, May 13, 2010

Recipe: Campton Place Pancakes

I love breakfast - the sweet kind with a side of bacon, but it is really hard for me to make breakfast with all of my other cooking. Last week, knowing I had a long day coming, I stopped to make some hearty pancakes from one of my cookbooks. Turns out that they were some of the best pancakes I had ever had:

1 C AP flour
1 C Cake flour
¼ C Whole wheat flour (btw, mesquite would be very nice here)
3 T Sugar
2 t Baking powder
1 t Baking soda
¼ t Salt
¼ t Cinnamon
2 Eggs
2 C Buttermilk
1 t Vanilla
2 oz (half a stick) Unsalted butter, melted

Sift together the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, then whisk in the buttermilk, vanilla and melted butter. Whisk in the flour mixture and combine well, but do not overmix. As you can see I also added blueberries which were tossed in the flour mixture before adding the liquid.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Menu 2.0 cntd

Here are a few more of the dishes from our current dinner menu. You saw this in the previous post on salt cured egg yolk - poached asparagus, enokitake mushrooms, cured yolk.

Roasted walnut tossed chickpeas, cous cous, feta, sunflower sprout, roasted red pepper.

Here's a cool one for ya - fired goat cheese croquette, picked beet, but then look the left. That goat cheese is about 1" across. See the little blob? I have a local farmer who has a chicken laying runts. The egg was no more than a half inch across. I sous vide soft poached the eggs, and then cracked them into the dish - very tasty! Let's hope that chicken keeps under performing.

Clay baked purple potatoes, olive oil pudding, basil pesto, parmesan cream, parmesan strips. This was prettier than the pic lets on to.

Roasted vegetables with almond espuma.

Raw tuna, wasabi crema and caviar.



Sunday, May 9, 2010

Technique: Salt cured egg yolk

Here's something new for many of you - salt cured egg yolk.
Why you ask? Well...in my world, just because. But more practically this is a unique condiment and a good outcome for that large meringue that had you wasting a dozen yolks. I found the technique over at StarChefs and have incorporated it into my current menu.

Start by making a Swiss meringue of 85 g Egg white, 38 g Sugar and 87 g Salt. Huh?! 87 g Salt? Yep...salt cured is what I called it, right? Combine all three ingredients, set over a water bath and whisk like any other Swiss meringue, then remove from the heat and whisk until stiff. Line a muffin pan with some of the salty meringue and gently, very gently lay a yolk inside the pillowy next.

You can use any old egg, but goose eggs are good for this one. The fresher, the darker, the better. Cover the yolks with the remaining meringue and set in the fridge for 12-18 hours. Repeat this process one more time. After this cycle, remove the yolks from their nests. They should be relatively firm, but a bit tacky to the touch.

Put the yolks in your fridge overnight, uncovered so they can dry out a bit. Mine were still tacky so I put them in the dehydrator and that really did the trick (an oven set on the lowest temp would work too). Then grate over your dish as you might bottarga or any other salty condiment. I serve it on poached asparagus with sauteed enokitake mushrooms.

My favorite compliment

Last night delivered my favorite compliment to date:

I've never been to the French Laundry, but I can't imagine it being as good as this.

Now, if they go to the FL and say that, I'll be their personal chef for life!

Friday, May 7, 2010

Menu 2.0


Bread Course
Sage financier
Tomato bread

Dinner 1
Tuna wasabi shooter & caviar
Chilled pea soup with daikon dots and steamed edamame
Vessel of unagi, smoke, savory tuile, white chocolate risotto & caviar
Salmon with red thai curry and sunflower sprout ragout
Bold
Dinner 2
Mozzarella wrapped in tomato gelée
Brie and pear soup
Watercress barlotto
Grilled lamb loin with almond espuma

Dinner 3
Chickpea feta garlic: garlic, chick/cous & feta
Sunchoke soup with olive oil milk foam & arugula pudding
Poached asparagus with GRATED cured yolk of local fowl
Marinated early vegetables

Dinner 4
Goat cheese with local greens and beetroot, Bee Chama honey and walnut dressing
Brie and pear soup
Clayed purple potatoes on basil pesto with parma ribbons and olive oil pudding
Burger on brioche

Desserts
Strawberry Frasier
Passionfruit chocolate many layers

Monday, May 3, 2010

Bike Race pt 2 and many other rambling thoughts

First, let me start with the confession that I normally write my posts early or late in my day, but rarely am I buzzed while I write. Tonight is an exception. But, let me digress a moment. We got our beer and wine license on Thursday at 4 pm!

This is no small matter. New Mexico has very...umm...well, let's just say, conservative liquor licensing issues. The process took four months, required a major floor plan shift, and many, many revisions to our original application. I don't recommend the process to anyone prone to paranoia or suicidal ideation. But enough of that. We got it. I bought some amazing beers and tonight I finally had a chance to drink my first one - Don de Dieu from Canada. Beer Advocate gave this beer an A-. I won't bother acting like I can review this awesome beer. I'll just say at 9% alcohol, I'll be reading my alcohol percentages in the future - it kicked my rear!

This past week was the Tour of the Gila professional bike race. Lance Armstrong and bunch of other big names that were wasted on me showed up, as did 600 of their closest friends and media.

And Lance was still the star, although not as much as last year. His RV (parked in front of our store) was much smaller, suggesting Leman Brothers have not been good to him.

But once the big downtown race started, we already had three nights of serving racers under our belts. This year we served over 100 racers each night with an all-you-can-eat pasta dinner. My sauce was very simple but received very positive reviews - sauté onion, carrot and celery, add zucchini, then thyme, salt and pepper. On some nights I added cayenne which the riders loved. Every night had a different salad, low-fat protein, and dessert (brownies, granola, mango crumble and baklawa). I prepared the meal based on the next days ride - spring = more protein; longest = more carbs; last day = kitchen sink because its a huge, long, hard ride. I really enjoy cooking for this many people, and really was humbled by how appreciative the riders were to get affordable, but fresh and tasty food.

After the Saturday dinner, all I could think about was how I have been juggling so many balls for so long, and I could finally put them all down. Our renovation is essentially done (did I mention that I built a papercrete wall last week?). I have no major catering jobs (except for the New Mexico Film Commission tomorrow). No major events (until our Blues Fest at the end of May). And my desk, bill paying and universe are almost under control.

Now I can focus more on Tyler, our house, my family and so many other neglected aspects of myself. I'm ready for that rest.

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Bike Race pt 1

This won't be much of a report. The race started yesterday. Lance finished 22nd and Levi was in first. I have more fun following all of the Cat 3-4 racers who eat at my place.

What's more interesting to me right now is that last year the idea of serving a hundred voracious athletes scared the poop out of me. Now, its just a ho hum moment. The food is nothing special but the riders appreciate inexpensive, fresh food and that they don't have to wait two hours at the other restaurants. Makes for a fun crowd.

And, did I mention that our beer and wine license came in just yesterday! I've been told its the best list in town:

Oskar Blue Dales Ale

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale

Orval Trappist Ale

Unibrew Don de Dieu

Deschutes Green Lakes

Rogue Xs Imperial Red

Rogue John John Dead Guy

Deschutes Red Chair NWPA

Left Hand Smoke Jumper

Rogue XS Imperial Stout

Anderson Valley IPA

Rogue Xstreme Imperial IPA

Stone Ruination IPA

Ayinger UR Weisse

Ayinger Brua weisse

Hacker Pschorr Weiss

Sierra Nevada Kellerweiss hefe

Deschutes Black Butte Porter

Full Sale Porter

Deschutes Obsidian Stout

Oskar Blues Ten Fidy

Eel River Ravens Eye Stout

NB La Folie Bomber

Rogue Hazelnut Brown

Rochefort 8 – strong dark

Unibrew Maudite

Unibrew La Fin du Monde

Dopplebock Celebrator

Westmale Dubble Trappist Ale

Oskar Blues Yella Pils

Rio Grande Desert Pils

Rogue Estreme Old Crustation

Nimbus Monkeyshine

Oskar Blues Old Chub

Stone Arrogant BastardAle