tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53982214007383511202024-03-13T08:56:46.861-07:00The Curious BlogquatThe Kumquat Guyshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11291803719601268432noreply@blogger.comBlogger693125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-89854421856804557222016-08-30T13:07:00.001-07:002016-08-30T13:07:53.206-07:00Acorns & Cattails: A Modern Foraging CookbookMy book is out and it's absolutely stunning!<br />
<img alt="" aria-busy="false" aria-describedby="fbPhotosSnowliftCaption" class="spotlight" src="https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14212638_10154299697199845_4683172219762447954_n.jpg?oh=378290454e93b072187d73275e9adc89&oe=584A6110" />Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-40753762865039302982016-07-10T14:04:00.001-07:002016-07-10T14:04:12.149-07:00My purist whirlpoolWhen I was planning on opening the Curious Kumquat I told an experienced local chef that I was planning on serving foraged and locally grown foods. I was in a very remote town, in a dry arid ecosystem, with an under-developed farming scene. The chef replied that the model wouldn't work because I wouldn't have the ingredients available consistently or sufficiently enough to serve my customers. I replied, "Why can't I just serve what I have?"<br />
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I survived and thrived the final dinner service eight years later.<br />
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As I prepare to open my new restaurant in St. Louis I was publicly bemoaning how the farmers markets don't discern between organics and non-organics. Actually, what happened was that I was at a booth run by an Amish family and saw on their sign that "berries without pesticides available too." Huh?!<br />
<br />So I posted this on Facebook and another chef, who I know is hyper committed to local like me, responded that you just can't get peaches in Missouri if you don't use pesticides. My visceral reaction was - who gives a shit about peaches?! Why can't I serve what I know is organically raised and not serve the produce that can't be organically raised in Missouri?<br />
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I don't feel the need to limit myself with this ideologic straight-jacket, but I also don't feel the need to serve peaches when there is plenty of other produce out there (grown and foraged) that will meet my needs.<br />
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Different strokes and I'll eat anything, but I won't serve just anything.Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-87861409200998586772016-05-08T13:35:00.002-07:002016-05-08T13:35:31.548-07:00Don't kiss the stickersWhen I gather cactus I never use gloves for two very specific reasons. A bare hand will teach you to take only those parts that are ready for harvesting because they'll be loose enough to detach, and will force you to leave enough parts that are protected by the meanest of thorns to allow the plant to continue. Wearing gloves (or using tongs) is like wearing mufflers to a concert - you can't hear the music properly. Remove the gloves, touch lightly, and listen.<br />
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<br />Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-74256191523587989392016-04-30T12:02:00.001-07:002016-04-30T12:02:37.694-07:00Ghost storyBear with me as I share 7 years of history. Actually 100+ years of history.<br />
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My restaurant is housed in a building built in 1876. We call it the White house, but really its the Benton house that later sold to Senator White. Senator White is the great, great, great grandfather of Robert 'Moose' White from whom we bought the building. The building wasn't always in the White possession. From around the turn of the last century until the mid-1970s the house of was owned by other entities, at different points being a homeless shanty, a boy's boarding house and rental property.<br />
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The boarding house existed in 1914 and employed a young woman who cooked for the boys.<br />
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Fast forward to my time in the building. We bought the house about 8 years ago to move our gourmet grocery into a larger space, and to ultimately open a restaurant. Very early on we (meaning more than just me) started seeing something out of the corner of our eye, and sometimes not out of the corner, but directly. No one talked about it, and we had a lot of staff turnover in those early days. But about two years in one of my staff mentioned it, and I shared what I had seen too. Over the years, numerous previous staff have confirmed what they saw as well. Now its more common that if one of us sees her, the others see her that same day.<br />
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For me the sightings are almost exclusively from the kitchen (which make sense since 90% of time is in there). I see her out of my back doorway into a back storage room. The interesting thing about that is I see her peering around a corner, looking into the kitchen. The wall she is peering around didn't exist until I had it built when we did that storage room addition four years ago. From the movies I would believe that a modern wall wouldn't exist in her universe. I don't have anything more to add about that because it doesn't really make sense to me.<br />
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So who is this ghost? Well, we've all seen the same thing - a young woman, dressed in a flowing aged, cotton dress. Longer dark hair. Probably Hispanic or Mexican. Maybe 18-24ish. Pretty and average height. I'm not fashion expert (understatement of the year), but I'd place the clothing style at 1900-1920 based on pictures I've seen. Everyone agrees that this is an accurate description. She comes off as a 20% opacity for you computer geeks. So, we see her but she's see through...not a cloud, not a sheet, not a light. A real body but see through as opaque. She has felt benevolent to every single one of us even though many of us are freaked out by her.<br />
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Last year a woman called me and said she was researching ghosts in town (we're an Old West town with lots of history including Geronimo's birthplace, Billy the Kid's first crime, etc), and asked me to tell her what I knew. I did. She asked if I would be willing to see a psychic. I'm not wild about such things but I took my pastor spouse with me and we went. Short version - without me saying a word, she described the ghost exactly in look and age. She said her name was Maria, and that she had cooked at the old boarding house (I've never known anyone to know the building as a boarding house. I found out by researching the title on the property when I bought it.) She said that Maria watched me because she was so fascinated by the difference in how I cook versus how she did. The psychic went on to say that we had a second ghost - whom I've never seen - who is a young girl who hangs out in the front lawn. The young girl (4-6 yrs) died of dyptheria or TB around the same time 1915ish, and was lost and didn't know how to cross over. Maria was watching over her. I don't know what to say about all of that, but since the psychic, we've had a couple of people unsolicitedly tell me about a little girl in the front lawn. But that's not the story.<br />
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Fast forward to one year ago. This is before we knew we were moving or selling, but had an inkling that a move might be coming. I had already had the wheels in motion to install a couple of greenhouses on the property. To prepare the property we had to remove a large elm that my tree guy said was probably 110 years old. I can only imagine what it might have been like in 1915 but it was a monstrous shade tree for us, and in feng shui terms, it was our green turtle at the back of the house. Starting the day we brought the tree down ghost, activity went wild. Everyone on staff was feeling something brush past them, seeing Maria multiple times a day, and just feeling uneasy. Taking the advice of my spouse and the psychic I talked to her (no, she did not talk back). I explained why I was doing what I was doing and focused on the new life that was coming in the greenhouse, and all the people we were going to feed. After a few weeks things calmed.<br />
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And that's how it remained - a sighting maybe once a month - until yesterday.<br />
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This is when I start to get creeped out.<br />
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I was raised Catholic during the era of The Exorcist and The Omen. Few things scare the bejeebers out of me more than seeing 666. As I understand it, that's a construct of The Omen, not anything Biblical. [Being Catholic I wouldn't know either way :)]. Yesterday in the morning I walked past my souvide and the thermometer showed 66.6º. Yeah, whatever, right? It has to pass that number to get to its ultimate temp as it warms up. I noted it as I would whenever I see a 666 but not pay too much attention to it. Much later in the day I walked past my scale. Nothing was on on the scale, so it was showing the zero out weight (meaning I had added stuff but didn't zero out, and when the item was removed this was what the scale thought was the baseline), and you guessed it - 666g. I noted this more intently, but still am grounded enough to know that this stuff happens. Throughout yesterday I saw Maria I think 5 times, but I always doubt it when I do. Then my night server came in. I told her about all of this and she told me to grab yesterday's sales sheet and look at her sales. $666! WTH!<br />
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I called my pastor-exorcist-most high holy reverend-spouse and asked what he thought. He's very matter of fact about this kind of thing because he's done many house blessings, clearings, etc. He worked for hospice for a number of years so that concept of an afterlife is not a ghost story like it is to me. He said it was probably Maria sensing a major change (like with the greenhouse) and she was trying to communicate with me. I've told Maria many times to not scare me by trying to communicate with me. My response to Tyler was, "But why would she use 666 if its not a real concept?" And even before he answered I realized, "Because she knew it would get my attention." Which it did.<br />
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He told me to talk to her and reassure her that the new owner would be okay. So as I left last night I spoke into the nothingness and tried to reassure Maria (or my subconscious) that everything would be okay. I used a trick that the psychic suggested, to put a paper and marker out for her to respond. And I left for the night. This morning when I came in I saw something on the paper, but the marker had not moved. The paper was lightly ripped or scratched in the center. Yes my pulse was jumping. But despite what you might be thinking at this point, I am a very pragmatic, concrete person. I don't trust anything unless I experience it myself. I'm mentioning the scratch, but also know that I didn't pay enough attention last night to know if the scratch was there or not when I put it down. Was it? I have no way of knowing. I do know that I pulled it off of a stack of papers that were a mis-print from my printer and none of the other pages had a scratch or tear. So who knows.<br />
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That's it. That's my kitchen ghost story. Tyler thinks something big is about to come with the building. I guess we'll see.Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-64244154211095699382016-04-11T17:19:00.001-07:002016-04-11T17:19:33.065-07:00Chipmunks bakes a cakeIf you read my story about Chipmunk a couple of weeks ago...there have been developments. He reached out one night and I invited him into the restaurant to do dishes. That led to us talking and him showing me a picture of a tiedye cupcake he had made.<br />
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It was all boxes mixes (which he didn't care about), but he wasn't happy with the results. I asked if he wanted to learn how to make professional cakes and he did. So I invited him to come back the following Sunday (closed day), and to bring his best friend (for safety).<br />
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I knew he was more interested in the finish work than the baking and such so I pre-made the cakes which included 3 layers of Pierre Herme's cocoa cake, soaked with caramel sauce, and alternating with peanut butter cremieux and caramel ganache. Those were all encased in a dark chocolate mousse. The flavors were his choice.<br />
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With him and his friend we made the finish - a miroir glaze and we were supposed to create a tie dye effect. I flubbed that but we'll fix it on the next attempt.<br />
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The 4 very large individual cakes were meant to be teen boy size:<br />
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I have two things I'd like to share. First is that long ago I learned that adding flaws to pastries made them more accessible to people. You'd think that a person would want the best, most perfect pastry, but experience has shown that they want the croissant that has a slight tear, or the pie that has the broken shell.<br />
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Why? I don't know. I've hypothesized that it has to do with not feeling worthy of perfection, or that a perfect pastry can look fake. But time and time again, this has proven to be true.<br />
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The second is that Chipmunk is obviously reaching out for someone to love him/pay attention to him/care about him...he's not getting that elsewhere in his life. I'm just the chef that he happens to be using my wifi, but I don't want to be another adult that isn't giving him what he needs in his life. Its basic youth development. There is risk having another adult's child in your kitchen, but there are precautions that can be taken - I made him bring his friend along. I'm looking forward to them coming back next weekend to learn how to make the mousse...we're going to work backwards until he can make the dessert all by himself.<br />
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On a side note, my cookbook is now available for pre-order at <a href="http://www.acornsandcattails.com/">www.AcornsandCattails.com</a>. It releases in September and I get final page proofs next week which I'll share here if anyone wants to see them.<br />
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Cheers!Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-15161785228656799852016-04-03T06:45:00.004-07:002016-04-03T06:45:37.439-07:00Restaurant foragingLast night I served a couple who regularly forages for a highly starred Chicago restaurant. They told me the story (because they were buzzed) about how chef said, "I need ## day lilies by tomorrow." So they went down the street to a bank and clipped all of their day lilies, and continued doing this daily until the chef took them off the menu weeks later.<br />
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When I first started foraging for my restaurant over seven years ago I read a story about a major Houston chef who would walk down the street to an abandoned building lot and gather dandelion greens...in downtown Houston.<br />
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Later I read of a forager for a highly starred restaurant in Central California who would glean the corners of vineyards.<br />
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This is not about me so I won't go into what I do to forage more responsibly, but this is about the disconnect between chefs and their ingredients.<br />
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First, dude - you are serving stolen food from private property.<br />
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Second, dude - you're serving food grown in highly polluted areas.<br />
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And guess what? Even though all three are chefs known across this country (and beyond), they clearly don't care enough to ask. I bet if the chefs asked their foragers where they gathered the ingredients the chef would stop it. Why don't they? Maybe the foragers would respond that its a secret that maintains their livelihood. So you don't trust the chef? But it's unethical and dangerous.<br />
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I've long said (and practiced) that if you're not willing to put on your menu the location where you found the ingredient, then don't serve it. Because if you're not, then you're not confident that your customer will trust your food sources.<br />
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Cut it out chefs!<br />
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#changemenuschangeslivesGfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-37065473223206975462016-03-25T16:01:00.000-07:002016-03-25T16:01:06.665-07:00Serving ChipmunkOccasionally restaurants have a homeless guy living around their dumpster that the staff take in and share food and clothes with. I think its because often times restaurant employees live one paycheck away from homelessness themselves.<br />
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My own twist on that scenario is a young man that I've recently befriended. I've never met him, mind you, but we've chatted for hours online. I call him Chipmunk.<br />
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Chipmunk is an 18-year old high school senior who is gay but not out, and is not in the most comfortable home environment. We've talked about work, dating, and most recently DIY craft projects. All of this happens while he sits in his car using free wi-fi hotspots around town. His favorite is a coffee shop which recently changed its password. I invited him down to our building where we don't use a password, plus I felt it was safer if he was on my property where we could take care of him a bit.<br />
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Early on in our "relationship," fearing that he might be homeless (he's not), I asked if he wanted some food near the end of my night. He was so polite in refusing the food, but it was clear from his response that he wouldn't mind a little food. I still don't know if its because of his home life or just being a teenage boy. So I told him I would put a plate on the back of my car and he could get it when he wanted it. No one was in the lot, so I returned to the kitchen only to peek out the window and see that not minutes later the plate was gone. We repeated this process many times over the weeks, always seeing the plate returned in time for my end-of-day dish washing. Always cleaned to the bottom. And always an appreciative text from him. I've learned he is a very adventurous eater, and he wants to learn to make chocolates - my type of kid!<br />
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Last week, out of context he asked me what my favorite soda was. Now, I had an inkling so I didn't go into adult mode about how I don't drink sodas and calories and caffeine and blah, blah, blah. I just said Coke. He responded, "Don't leave!!!!!!" So I waited. Ten minutes later I received another text, "Okay, you can go now." I walked out and right by the door was a massive super duper sized coke from Sonic along with this note.<br />
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What a sweet kid, right?<br />
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Then last night he, out of the blue, asked me if I had ever seen a cloud lamp (go google them), which I hadn't. Well he was going to make one for his bedroom tonight. I assumed he was at home when he texted me...no, he was in the parking lot, in his car again. He texted, "Damn! I don't have an outlet." I asked if I could throw him a power cord. He was reluctant, but I promised it would be easy. Next thing you know I'm tossing a 50' cord into the parking area. I came inside and Chipmunk stretched the cord to his car.<br />
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Almost three hours later worth of chatting and I was ready to go home. I always warn him so he can run away. This time I added, "I wish I could see that cloud lamp lit up inside your car." He just sent back "LOL." Moments later my server stepped out the back door first, and one step out and she screeched. Then I took a step and saw why - pitch black parking lot with an old junky car that we couldn't really see inside except for a glowing cloud lamp the size of a basketball hovering above the stick shift! I burst out loudly, "That is the coolest thing I've ever seen!" And it was. Chipmunk, the king of backseat DIY projects, had built a cloud lamp in the back of his car, in my parking lot, during a busy dinner rush.<br />
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I don't know if I'll ever see him, or what impact I'm having on Chipmunk, but he's bringing me immense joy.Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-61360473940576927182016-03-14T18:43:00.002-07:002016-03-14T18:45:15.436-07:00Morel Hunting Season Is HereI'm in a precarious location. On one hand I'm way down south almost to the Mexican border. On the other, I'm up in the high desert mountains of the Gila Wilderness. So as morel season approaches I never know how early to go out looking. So yesterday I did a little recon at a spot that has a strong riparian area - the convergence of Big Dry and Spruce creeks starting at the Little Dry trailhead.<br />
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Not an easy hike, which is why I'm willing to share the location. 4 or 5 miles in of rugged burned earth with numerous water crossing. Lexi pooch and I loved it though.<br />
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Signs are good for other mushrooms when the rains come. And as with all trails in the Gila Wilderness, wild strawberries are abundant.</div>
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But, no morels on this trip. I'll be out as soon as the rains roll in.</div>
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BTW, my cookbook is available for pre-order at <a href="http://www.acornsandcattails.com/">http://www.acornsandcattails.com</a></div>
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<br />Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-13031847543343236882015-12-25T07:13:00.003-08:002015-12-25T07:13:42.647-08:00I woke up with a dish developing in my head and can't post it where my customers will see it, so I'm sharing it here. We're closing our restaurant in the upcoming months and I want to go out on a bang. Here's the text from a card I'll give our customers on their last course on New Years Eve.<br />
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How does one end such an blessed
run?! The Curious Kumquat morphed into a restaurant from our gourmet grocery in
the fall of 2009. Dinners started in March of 2010 to empty tables of skeptical
neighbors. But through the enthusiasm of numerous food writers and bloggers
such as Zora O’Neill (Moon Guides, New York Times, Saveur), Ari Levaux
(Outside, Slate) and Andrea Feucht (ABQ Journal, Food Lovers Guide), our
culinary voice was heard and diners traveled from all over the country. This
spurred us on even more to create even better food. And our food has always had
the goal of being amazingly tasty, beautiful to look at, and sourced with local
products that most people couldn’t even dream of making into a meal. Finding
those ingredients has been a passion of mine through thousands of miles of
hiking and relationships with the most eccentric band of farmers, ranchers and
weirdos.<br /><o:p> </o:p>So it is with this that I offer you
my most perfect dish ever. My last New Year’s dish ever at the Kumquat. The end
of your meal. The pinnacle of my Gila Wilderness foraging experience. The most
perfect Curious Kumquat dish ever created.<br /> <o:p> </o:p><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Gila
Opulence</b><o:p> </o:p><o:p> (photo)</o:p>72-hour roasted mesquite bean mousse
(Ben Lilly pond approach)<br />16-year Traditional, organic
Balsamico (Monticello, NM)<br />Consommé of aspen bark (Railroad
Trailhead, Black Range)<br />Gold leaf (Kingston, NM)<br />Gila Trout roe (Hatchery raised,
Willow Creek)*<br /><o:p> </o:p>Like all of my creations it will be
gone in moments, but I hope this special dish, created only for tonight, will
live in your memories for many, many years.<br /><o:p> </o:p><o:p> </o:p><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">*The
Gila Trout is an endangered species on its way to a comeback. This roe was
obtained by staff at the hatchery who assured me that they had released 10,000
Gila Trout into Willow Creek in October of 2015.</i></blockquote>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment-->Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-84722808710973673452015-11-20T16:32:00.001-08:002015-11-21T07:55:21.204-08:00Biscochitos5-6 C Flour<br />
1 Tbsp Baking powder<br />
1/4 tsp Salt<br />
1 lb Lard<br />
1 C Sugar<br />
3 Eggs<br />
1 1/2 Tbsp Anise, ground<br />
1/2 C Orange juice<br />
2 Tbsp Whiskey<br />
<br />
Sift flour, baking powder, salt and sugar together.<br />
<br />
Whip lard in mixer for about 5 minutes on high.<br />
<br />
Add eggs, one at a time.<br />
<br />
Add dry ingredients in 3 additions.<br />
<br />
Add ground anise, juice and whiskey. Add flour if its tacky.<br />
<br />
Roll out to 1/4" or less. Cut, handling as little as possible.<br />
<br />
Bake at 425ºF til very lightly brown - don't over bake! For me that's 7 minutes.<br />
<br />
As soon as they come out of the oven, while still hot sprinkle with a mixture of sugar and cinnamon. I find it better to dredge the cookies in a large bowl of cinnamon sugar.<br />
<br />
*Not traditional, but I added some orange zest.Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-60696927104099311312015-10-22T12:38:00.002-07:002015-10-22T12:38:27.146-07:00Southwest Burger<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Cuz people always ask me for this recipe; Our vegetarian Southwest Burger</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">1 Tbsp Oil</span><br />
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1 Onion, small, diced</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
2 Garlic, cloves</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1 Jalepeno</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1/2 Red bell pepper, chopped</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1 Ear corn, fresh, kernels removed</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
12 oz Black beans (we use our day old from the burritos which are from dry beans, but canned should work fine)</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1 Tbsp Cilantro</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1/2 tsp Oregano</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1 tsp Cumin powder</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
Salt to taste</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
1/2 C Bread crumbs (we use panko)</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
Heat skillet with oil, sauté onion til translucent; add garlic and jalepeno, red bell and corn. Sauté 5 min. Add beans into center and mash with the back of a spoon. Add cilantro through salt and cook about 5 more minutes til any remaining moisture is gone. Add the bread crumbs a little bit at a time smooshing in with the spoon. Add just enough til the crumbs won't absorb anymore - if you add too much the patties won't hold when you try to form them. Chill mix for 1 hour.</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
Form patties, toss if flour, dredge in egg wash, toss in panko. Chill for 1 hour. Fry at 350º. We have and sometimes do cook in a skillet, and it works okay but you have to watch very closely to make sure the center cooks. For a gluten free variation, replace flour with rice flour and the panko with chopped rice crackers.</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
<br /></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">
*With acknowledgement to @Grumpys</div>
Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-86538148255300173162015-06-02T17:32:00.000-07:002015-06-02T17:32:35.187-07:00Boxed WinesBoxed wines that are really worth it - not just what Oprah says we should buy:<br />
<br />
1. <a href="http://jennyandfrancois.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/wines/From%20the%20Tank%20Red.pdf" target="_blank">From the Tank</a>Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-41961605815944960832014-10-03T09:11:00.001-07:002014-10-03T09:17:57.122-07:00Best Food Writing 2014A story written by Amy Gentry about me was selected for <a href="http://dacapopress.com/book/paperback/best-food-writing-2014/9780738217918" target="_blank">Best Food Writing 2014</a>! The story was called Seven Bald Men and a Kumquat Tree. How fun is that!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.curiouskumquat.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffd966;">The Curious Kumquat</span></a>Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-17279907318245596682014-08-06T12:15:00.000-07:002014-08-06T14:46:21.022-07:00Random Pics from San Francisco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-33486907495786155382014-07-04T14:12:00.004-07:002014-07-04T14:12:49.623-07:00Gluten Free Flatbread<i>This is the recipe for our gluten free/yeast free/egg free flat bread that we use for pizza and sandwich.</i><br />
<br />
Oven to 450º<br />
Place seasoned cast iron skillets in oven and pre-heat at least 30 minutes. We use 8" round cast irons - two at a time to make a perfect personal pizza size.<br />
<br />
1 C. each Millet and rice, soaked overnight<br />
1 3/4 C. Water<br />
3 T Oil<br />
1 1/2 t Salt<br />
1 T Sugar or honey<br />
1 t Apple cider vinegar<br />
<br />
<i>Combine all in a blender and blend on high for 2 minutes. Add herb (rosemary) if you want.</i><br />
<br />
1/4 C Flax or other seed (sesame, amaranth, chia)<br />
<br />
<i>Add seeds to blender and blend another minute.</i><br />
<br />
2 t Baking powder<br />
<br />
<i>Add baking powder and blend :30. Immediately pour into hot pans and bake 15 minutes.</i>Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-65219977050435308942014-07-03T18:33:00.002-07:002014-07-03T18:33:26.605-07:00Korean DishesRecipe by request:<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Korean Sauce<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<i>This sauce is the base for two of
our more popular dishes.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
¼ C (70 g) Korean pepper paste
(Gochujang)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
4 T (35 g) Sesame oil<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
4 T (44 g) Sugar<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
4 T (48 g) Water<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
4 T (35 g) Roasted sesame seeds<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
2 T (20 g) Yellow miso<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
6 t (30 g) Rice wine vinegar<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
4 Garlic cloves, peeled<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
Combine all of the ingredients in
the blender and process til smooth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
seeds may remain in the final sauce. Adjust to taste.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Korean braised elk shank<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
6 elk shank (Other shanks can be
used if elk is not available)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
2 C Korean sauce<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
Heat roasting pan on stove top while
pre-heating oven to 325ºF.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add a light
coating of oil to the bottom of the pan and bring to just smoking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Season the elk with salt and pepper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add the meats cut side down and sear until a
nice dark brown crust forms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Turn the
meat and crust the other side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pour
sauce over the browned meat, cover with foil, and bake in the oven for one
hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After one hour has passed, lower
the oven to 225ºF and continue baking for at least 3 hours or until the meat is
fall-off-the-bone tender.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add sauce as
necessary and salt to taste.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Serve with
roasted potatoes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<b>Korean Cauliflower Salad<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
2 Cauliflower heads<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
2 C Korean sauce<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
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Heat oven to 375ºF.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Coat heavy duty baking sheet with cooking
oil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cut the cauliflower in ½” slices
trying your best to keep the slices intact although they will inevitably
crumble.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lay the slices single depth
across the pan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Coat with more oil – be
generous not healthy!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bake for 20
minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Turn the cauliflower over (this
is why we try to keep it in big pieces) and bake an additional 20 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Turn one more time and continue cooking until
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Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-37790880036266247092014-06-23T17:28:00.001-07:002014-06-23T17:28:49.661-07:00HelsinkiLooks like we're heading to Finland for a few dinners sometime in December. I'm hoping to snag tables at <a href="http://www.tundra.fi/en/" target="_blank">Studio Kitchen Tundra</a>, <a href="http://olo-ravintola.fi/en/" target="_blank">Olo</a>, and possibly something in St. Petersburg - looking for suggestions.Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-11470434928954739202014-05-12T09:43:00.002-07:002014-05-12T09:43:30.944-07:00Elk's Blood BonbonIt is what it says it is and its great!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic6Gm4dCZZLYe3hO9gAS3IaYNblRwhPdyrNQ_gI1ivXzGUgka6PvKhoDj9heciJu67f5mzt-F2kw8GlQrqsGKfyOABdBv2KgHsLEfl2KWeeg2cDbp6IeCBrQwe8zlBKznHPbOLm0G73RlJ/s1600/Elk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic6Gm4dCZZLYe3hO9gAS3IaYNblRwhPdyrNQ_gI1ivXzGUgka6PvKhoDj9heciJu67f5mzt-F2kw8GlQrqsGKfyOABdBv2KgHsLEfl2KWeeg2cDbp6IeCBrQwe8zlBKznHPbOLm0G73RlJ/s1600/Elk.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-77729789533459538722014-04-09T14:51:00.002-07:002014-04-09T14:52:34.364-07:00Fresh OriginsAs an organizer for this year's eGullet Chocolate and Confections Workshop in Vegas in May I'm starting to get samples sent to me, and every now and then one stands out as something really special to play with. <br />
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<a href="http://www.freshorigins.com/" target="_blank">Fresh Origins</a> sells microgreens, edible flowers, and crystalized herbs. The fennel is knocking my socks off and I can't wait to work them into my pastry and savory dishes. Essentially flavored sugar, the texture is light, not dense, and the flavors and colors are bright and clear. The ingredients show them at cane sugar but I'd love to have them use isomalt and offer a less sweet version. Either way - cool stuff.</div>
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<a href="http://www.curiouskumquat.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffe599;">CK</span></a></div>
Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-81483496709029736902014-03-27T13:37:00.002-07:002014-03-27T13:38:32.414-07:00SmithsonianOur little town was just listed as Smithsonian magazine's top 20 small towns to visit, and part of the reason was our little restaurant! Here's the link - go to 18: <a href="http://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/20-best-small-towns-to-visit-in-2014-180950173/?no-ist" target="_blank">Smithsonian Magazine</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.curiouskumquat.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ffe599;">Curious Kumquat</span></a>Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-1730461209766826232014-02-22T08:17:00.001-08:002014-02-22T08:19:48.928-08:00James Beard Awards - Best Chef Southwest<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We always dreamed of this moment but never thought it would really happen. I mean, how can anyone find a restaurant as remote as ours. We're 3 hours to anywhere and no airport in site. We're not on the way to anything! <br />
<br />
But somehow we got on the semifinalist list for Best Chef - Southwest. Honored. Humbled. Proud.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.curiouskumquat.com/" target="_blank">Curious Kumquat</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.jamesbeard.org/awards" target="_blank">James Beard Awards</a>Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-46401614342740605362014-02-06T14:12:00.000-08:002014-02-06T14:12:15.816-08:00Recipe: Russian Medovic Cake<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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63 g<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Honey
– the bolder the flavor the better<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
6.5 g<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Baking soda<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
200 g<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Butter flavored Crisco (haven’t tried butter yet*)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
260 g<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Sugar<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
2<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Eggs<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
530 g<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>AP Flour<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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In sauce pan, warm the honey and
soda.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once dissolved add the Crisco and
warm til fully melted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add the sugar and
stir until dissolved.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Transfer to the
bowl of a mixer and when at room temp add eggs one at a time paddling just
until incorporated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add the flour
gradually and paddle just until homogenous.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
Divide dough into seven equal
portions of 160 g each, cover with saran.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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On silpat or parchment, rollout each
dough to desired shape (it doesn’t have to be perfect because the cake will
expand as it bakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did three
rectangles of 4”x10” on each baking sheet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Cover the dough with a second Silpat or parchment and set a second
baking sheet on top to weigh them down – this will give you uniform flat cake
layers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bake at 350º for about 10
minutes until lightly browned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When all
six layers are baked and cooled to room temp, bake the final dough darker than
the first about 18 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pulse that
into decorative crumb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
260 g <span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Superfine sugar<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
500 g<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>Sour cream<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
Combine both in mixer and whisk on
high until soft peaks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Spread 125 g of
cream mixture on each layer and top with next layer of dough, repeating until
stacked finished with the cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sprinkle the decorative crumbs on the top layer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rest all in fridge overnight to allow
soaking.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0in;">
*My concern with butter is that
margarine or Crisco will leave the cake softer than butter, and I’m not yet sure
how much soaking from the filling will effect the dough.<o:p></o:p></div>
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**My variations – a splash of vodka
in the cream; fresh blueberries<o:p></o:p></div>
Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-75280214451139203802013-12-17T13:10:00.000-08:002014-07-19T07:55:06.503-07:00Recipe: Butterscotch PieI love butterscotch pie but I hate how most are made with morsels (chemical flavoring) or corn starch thickener (gritty). So I've been working on my version which gets natural flavors and a smooth consistency. Here it is:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5lYY_VGNW2nnieX6HiM2znM-2S0N4cfy0CXcazbkNNAEQKA6T0MGghdTj4eh7-n5n52ARdM3XwB4c9d2wu71ZwY7gLb9Oq5P1U2usgbbWnvNR83e1nyUD8ijD_5fo-vAqVg2o5BmPCib/s1600/butterscotchPie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5lYY_VGNW2nnieX6HiM2znM-2S0N4cfy0CXcazbkNNAEQKA6T0MGghdTj4eh7-n5n52ARdM3XwB4c9d2wu71ZwY7gLb9Oq5P1U2usgbbWnvNR83e1nyUD8ijD_5fo-vAqVg2o5BmPCib/s320/butterscotchPie.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
90 g Muscovado sugar (if you don't have it use dark brown)<br />
540 g Cream<br />
180 g Yolks<br />
2 T Butter<br />
1/4 C Whiskey<br />
<br />
Bring cream to a simmer and hold. Carefully watch the muscovado as you give it the lightest of dry caramelization in a sauce pan. As soon as the sugar is all liquid and slightly caramelized (don't burn it) carefully pour the cream in and whisk until smooth. Pour a third of the caramel cream over yolks while whisking, and the return to the remaining cream (tempering). Heat until slightly thickened whisking the whole time. Finish with butter and whiskey stirring until smooth and creamy.Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-644622262069758712013-09-04T08:18:00.000-07:002013-09-04T08:18:00.668-07:00Chocolate Workshop - May 2014 in Las Vegas<div style="background-color: white; color: #282828; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 22px; padding: 0px;">
I am co-organizing a chocolate workshop in Vegas for next May. Its turning out to be a big deal. If any of you are interested, check out the following:</div>
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We have some exciting developments for the May 17-18 2014 eGullet Chocolate & Confections Workshop in Las Vegas.</div>
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We have confirmed the use of Jean Marie Auboine's chocolate studio and the participation of Melissa Coppel, the 2013 Chocolatier of the Year! These are two of the world's finest chocolatiers and both are very excited for us to use their space and participate with our group.</div>
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There will be a few changes this year since we're in Las Vegas, and we hope you'll appreciate the amazing opportunity we're being given which is necessitating some of these changes.</div>
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We anticipate the price for both days to be $160 per person if you register prior to 12/31/13. After that time the price will increase to $250. A $50 deposit is required to confirm your spot. We will have more details on this shortly. This deposit is non-refundable but will guarantee your spot. This price includes use of the facility and a 3 hour demo by Jean Marie and chocolate and other supplies for use throughout the weekend. Meals are not included in this price, but we're working on sponsorship for breakfasts and lunches.</div>
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We are also offering a master class for the first 10 people at an additional $130 on Friday afternoon. This class will be taught by both Jean Marie and Melissa. This class is intended for more advanced participants. Registration for this class will require payment in full and is non-refundable.</div>
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All registrations will be opened to the general public (meaning non-eGullters and friends) on 1/1/14 to ensure that the workshop expenses will be met.</div>
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These are the most important items for now, but know that we're working on a super, value-packed weekend including:</div>
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•Printed recipes shared by the participants</div>
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•Plenty of giveaways</div>
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•Chocolate sampling panel so you can try as many chocolates and couvetures that we can get</div>
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•Friday night social</div>
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•Friday morning chocolate shop tour of Vegas</div>
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•The ever popular chocolate and confection sharing party!</div>
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Mark your calendars now. Remember that we have hotel rooms blocked off. And watch for the next update for registration opening up. </div>
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Here are the instructions for registering for the Workshop:</div>
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Go to <a class="bbc_url" href="http://chocolot.com/products-page/" rel="nofollow external" style="color: #0f72da; text-decoration: none;" title="External link">chocolot/products-page/</a>. At the bottom of that page are three options. <strong>The Master class</strong>, <strong>Deposit for workshop </strong>and <strong>Pay in full for workshop</strong>. You need to be registered for the workshop in order to attend the Master class.</div>
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Please note that these moneys are non-refundable. We regret that, but the money will be forwarded to JMA for our deposit on the facilities. None of us are in a position to “loan” the fees.</div>
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If you choose the deposit option, the remainder needs to be paid by the end of the year, or the amount goes up. We will add that option once we have our numbers.</div>
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This is a bargain for any type of chocolate workshop. We are excited to be able to work with JMA and Melissa. Las Vegas is a fun destination and many of us plan to spend extra time. There are many excellent chocolatiers in Vegas that you will want to check out.</div>
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Please don’t put it off. There are only ten spots available in the Master class. 25 spots in the Workshop.</div>
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Once we get confirmation of registration, we will post them.</div>
Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5398221400738351120.post-89599219700615622202013-08-02T14:05:00.002-07:002013-08-02T14:05:32.841-07:00Recipe: Ginger CookiesI'll start with an apology because I'm sure this recipe came in part or in whole from someone else, but we've made it so long I can't remember where it came from. However, there was a recent request so here it is:<br />
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In mixing bowl:<br />
775 g AP flour<br />
4 t. Baking soda<br />
1/2 t. Salt<br />
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In your mixer bowl:<br />
345 g Butter, no salt, softened<br />
350 g Brown sugar<br />
1/2 C. White sugar<br />
3 T. Ground ginger<br />
2" Fresh ginger, grated<br />
1/4 C. Candied ginger*<br />
1 t. Cinnamon, freshly grated<br />
1/2 t. Cloves, freshly ground<br />
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Mix with paddle attachment until light and fluffy. Add directly into this bowl:<br />
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2 Eggs<br />
1/2 C. Molasses<br />
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Mix until combined. Add the flour mixture all at once but only paddle until is just combines - no more! Do NOT overmix! Use an ice cream scoop to shape, and chill at least one hour.<br />
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Every oven is different but we bake at 350º for 25 minutes on a silpat lined baking sheet.<br />
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<i>*The candied ginger makes a big difference. Store bought tends to be too sweet, so we make our own using fresh ginger. This gives you a spicy hot ginger that's minimally sweet.</i>Gfron1http://www.blogger.com/profile/09293609846439667977noreply@blogger.com0