Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Prickly Pear Tunas

You may have caught my earlier post about the 12-course tasting menu where I had "Tuna Tempura." The tuna, much to the surprise of my guests, was the fruit of the prickly pear plant - tuna. The crimson flesh looks enough like tuna meat that the two foods share their name.

Getting to the point of eating one is no easy task however. Here's how I do it - the best way I've found to not have a handful of stickers. Let's go for a hike!

I started on the CDT (Continental Divide Trail) just north of town.

Lexi lead the way

She is the ultimate trail dog with me. With Tyler...not so much.

She led me to the motherload of tuna!

It's been an odd year. I haven't seen as many tuna, even though locals say this is the most moisture we've had since 1974. We had nearly 2 months of daily rain during our monsoon season. Its been wonderful for agriculture and temperature control.

Here are the tools of the black market tuna snatcher

A good set of tongs and a plastic basket or bucket is all you need. Don't even mess with the idea of gloves or short grabbers, you'll end up with a handful or stickers that won't come out! Look at my booty:

I grabbed 40 of the biggest, darkest ones I could find. And that's enough of that...we headed back down the trail to the car, back to the store kitchen and got to work.

Here's my processing method - I'm sure your neighbor's grandma will tell you its the wrong way, but I'll tell you what - I didn't get a single sticker in my fingers with this method. Grab your trusted tongs and a good knife.

Next, cut the top and the bottom off, just removing the least amount possible, but enough to allow for your fingers to grab the two ends, or to set the tuna on its end on a cutting board.

Just a quick note that this tuna is a bit under-ripended. Still tasty, but it could have used a few more weeks. The problem is that I'm not the only one looking for good tunas. So are the deer, javalinas and bears. So the early bird gets the tuna, and in this case, that would be me.

Now, you have two options. First would be to hold the tuna in your fingers, and using a peeler (preferably a soft-skin peeler), peel the sides away.

Second (my preferred method), set the tuna on a cutting board. Hold the tuna with your tongs, and use the peeler to remove the skin as far as the peeler will allow. Then remove the remaining skin with a sharp knife.

Wanna see the guts?

What you see above is the nemesis to any tuna lovin' American! Them thar is seeds! Lot's of seeds. Seeds that seem to never go away. This time of year the trails are covered in purple animal poop full of seeds. Also notice that it has an inney. The inney is the top of the tuna. See how meat separates the inney from the seeds? That will become important in a second because that meat is not there at the other end - the bottom.

I then take my knife tip and open the bottom with a hole smaller than a pencil eraser. That's about enough to get the seeds to spew forth upon the land. Coax, plead, suck, shake...do whatever it takes to get them out - every last one of them! It's not easy, and after the first tuna or two, you will be asking if its worth the effort. I normally start with my knife, then go to a stainless steel slurpee straw that I have, then my pinky. The pinky is great because you can use your nail to scrap all around the sides and bottom (really the top) to get every seed. You can't feel the seeds as well with any other tool. Just get them out.

Again realize that this tuna is very young. It will be bitter. But for my purposes (top secret), that's okay.

Finally, after all that effort, here is what you have:

And a view from the bottom:

You can see how thin that last layer is. If you're just going to eat it, then you don't need to be as careful as I was. But I want to fill them with stuff. At this point you can pop it in your mouth.

In my next post I'll talk about preserving and storing. This is important because I want these for late October, but I have them now.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Recipe: Maque Choux

I think its funny that the Cajun food I enjoy the most is one I never had while I lived in New Orleans. Why didn't Auntie Young ever make this for me?! I discovered Maque Choux (Mock Choo) while living in Indianapolis.

I used to be known as a professional luncher back then as I wined and dined prospective donors to the agency I ran - Indiana Youth Group. One of my favorite supporters and friends was the most Reverend, Bishop Al Lankenau. Al and I would find almost any hole in the wall. One of our favorites was Yat's. It's just a little dive, but man did Joe's food sing to my soul. (His new Chicago location was recently lambasted on eGullet.) But never mind all that, his was the first maque choux that I ever had, and I ate a lot of it. A lot. Al would marvel at my ability to eat two plates, and the nasty butter bread, and a beer or two.

Maque Choux is my special this week at the cafè, and became dinner for Tyler and I tonight.

It may not look like much, but give it a try and tell me that it isn't better than puppy dog kisses!

Here we go:
(Serves 2 big stomachs or 4 normal stomachs)
4 T. Butter
4 C. Corn (fresh is preferable, but frozen will suffice if you're too lazy to zip the kernels)
1 C. Onion, chopped
1/2 C. Diced bell pepper - any color
2 T. Cajun Spice (I only use Tony Chachere's)
1/2 C. Cream

First, for you foodies who are going to tell me that true maque choux uses the corn milk to thicken this dish...I know, but back off y'all, this is a good version!
Second, this meal can be made in less than 30 minutes, so blow it off for a while and enjoy a Dixie beer while you ponder your last Mardi Gras embarrassments.

Melt the butter in a dutch oven, then add everything but the cream. Stir, scraping the bottom until it starts to stick and get black stuff all over (them's is flavor crystals brah). Finally, after about 10-15 minutes, but a few minutes before you're going to eat, add the cream and stir. At the cafè I added andouille and chicken to this, and for dinner just the sausage, both were very good. I like it with jasmine rice.

Enjoy.

Blog of a blog: FX Cuisine's Swiss Wine Tart

If there were any blogger whom I covet their kitchen, this would would be the one. Every now and then we see his kitchen filled with mounted lighting and photography equipment. I, on the other hand, just have my cheap little digital and Photoshop.

Last week FX Cuisine posted a recipe for Swiss Wine Tart. I grabbed my favorite bottle and gave it a go. Relatively simple recipe, and an outstanding crust. I ate all of them before they got home to Tyler...sorry Tyler.

Here is one of them fresh from the oven.

And after a few minutes of meditation:

It tasted of an apple pie, with no wine taste. I liked it very, very much and it is a recipe that I will repeat, probably for customers. On my next attempt, I'll include some fresh rosemary either in the crust, or in the filling itself. Give it a try.

Big Week in Local Foods

The stars are aligning and I'll be bushed by the end of the week. This is our county fair week. In New Mexico, the county fair is more important than the state fair, and in fact, is after the state fair. This is when schools shut down so their kids can show their pigs and goats, and its the week I get to buy a bunch of their pets and have them slaughtered!

I've got folks on the ground who are shopping for goats, pigs, chickens, turkeys and most importantly bunnies. Its a good time to buy because you're getting the best of the best, and because all bought animals are automatically sent to a USDA processor which makes the cost a bit cheaper.

I'm also entering the fair baking contests with a couple of items - I'll post pics tomorrow. Why? Because if Granny Betty Crocker wins one more time, I'll scream! This year I'm taking down granny!

I also picked up a slew of cater jobs, mostly appetizers, but also a twice a week, two dinner per pick-up cater for a couple that is having health issues. Tonight I made Maque Choux with andouille. Tomorrow they'll be having stuffed, baked zucchini with bison, vegetables and pecorino peperoncini served with a fresh fruit salad dressed with vanilla and lavender essence. Last week I made a Chicken tagine with locally grown figs, piñon and Israeli couscous served with Hondroelia olives. Kind of makes you want to be sick, huh?!

Anyway, details will be flowing soon. Cheers.

Monday, September 22, 2008

The Food BlogRoll

I know many of the readers here are armchair foodies, so I've joined the Foodie BlogRoll which links this blog to a bunch of others. I think you'll enjoy the extra reading...so start clicking!

My next entry will be about prickly pear processing!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Fried Squash Blossoms / Ras al Hanout

It all started with a penis and a vagina (as most of my stories do).

A friend was telling me how you need to pluck the male stamen (or is it the stigma or style...I don't remember anymore) if you are going to eat the blossom. I asked how you know the difference between the male and female, to which I received a very graphic representation demonstrated by her fist and fingers. Needless to say I rushed to a booth at our Farmers Market that was selling blossoms at 5 cents a piece. This became my off-the-menu special for the day!


I bought 15 of the biggest I could get. They were pretty fresh, but it would have been nice if they were fresher - so into a bit of water and a nap in my walk-in. In the meantime I made a mixture of ricotta, smoked Soho salmon, egg yolk, salt, pepper, and ras-al-hanout.

I first learned about ras-al-hanout from Chef Shevek at Shevek & Co.. This is the place we go when we have a celebration - good food, well executed. Shevek occassionally sources products from us and a couple of years ago as he was transitioning his menu, he needed ras-al-hanout.

From Wiki:

Ras el hanout (Arabic: رأس الحانوت) is a popular blend of herbs and spices that is used across the Middle East and North Africa. The name means "head of the shop" in Arabic, and refers to a mixture of the best spices a seller has to offer.

There is no definitive set combination of spices that makes up Ras el Hanout. Each shop, company, person would have their own secret combination containing over a dozen spices. Typically they would include cardamom, clove, cinnamon, ground chili peppers (also known as paprika), coriander, cumin, mace, nutmeg, peppercorn, and turmeric.

Some recipes include over one hundred ingredients, some quite unusual, such as ash berries, chufa, Grains of Paradise, orris root, Monk's pepper, cubebs, dried rosebud, and the potentially toxic belladonna and insects such as the beetle known as Spanish fly (however, the sale of Spanish fly was banned in the spice markets of Morocco in the 1990s). Usually all ingredients are toasted and then ground up together. Individual recipes are often improvised.

Ras el hanout is used in pastilla, the Moroccan squab/young pigeon and almond pastie, is sometimes rubbed on meats, and stirred into couscous or rice. It is often believed to be an aphrodisiac.

Shevek also claimed that it often contained opium. Well, I had a source (for ras al hanout, not opium)! So Shevek incorporated it into his menu. Now we carry it in the store and sell it surprisingly fast. Ras al hanout would not be a standard spice in squash blossoms. In fact, they would be the anti-spice in a dish that typically highlights the light, delicate flower. But I spit upon your traditions! And in the end I had a very nice, flavorful filling.

Just enough filling to fit without bursting out during the frying process. I then twirled the petals to close in the filling, and rested the blossoms in my walk-in to set up a bit.

Next it was into the fryer.

Not for long though. Maybe they fried 45 seconds at most.

Not bad for my first attempt. They sold out in the first 15 minutes - every single customer who could, bought them. I had one for myself!

My Food Philosophy

I thought I would share something I sent to a friend recently that tries to articulate my current views on food and cooking. My comments are in response to her suggesting we be conscious in revolutionizing how people eat in New Mexico (she said the state, I would be happy with my customers in town). Here it goes:

So, revolutionizing the state. I’m all for it. I’m not sure how, but I know I’m all for it. I’ve spent most of my night playing around at the Alinea Mosaic website feeling a bit trapped by my lack of knowledge, but knowing there is nothing that he’s doing that I couldn’t with some tools and time. I have spent a lot of today thinking about how I’m the only restaurant at the farmers market, and how I’m making pennies doing it. But then I have customers who say things like, “I’ve been a vegan for years, but your sandwich gives me a reason to cheat.” Our conversation turned to how my food has taste when it seems that no others do. I haven’t eaten out in longer than I can remember because its all boring, bland tripe. I’m sick of that shit.

I don’t know what all this means, but I know that I want to be an Alinea toned down to 80% with truly local foods ramped up to 60%. I love all the fun things I’m doing with prickly pear tunas. I love how I have a basket of perfectly ripe juniper berries sitting on my table waiting for inspiration (will they become gin if I don’t touch them? That works for me to!). Alinea is great, but it loses touch with essence. I want to keep essence. I want someone to push away from my meal and say, “How the hell did he make all of that from foods out in our woods?” That’s what I want.